teaching sewing confidence, tip by tip

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Stop Blogging; Start Making

This morning I've had a bit of a shock that has to spark me into action for the day - my June Bee Block fabric arrived in the post along with a class supply list for a course next week's LQS Free Motion Machine Quilting: Next Step and I see that there's prep-work required beforehand.  I'm starting to think that I'm a bit snowed under.

To explain, I've finished Surprise Project I but haven't labelled or photographed it yet and on Monday I planned out my top and backing sheet for Surprise Project II but I really must get on with making it now as my deadline is approaching fast, very fast.  I've not done any prep work for my Transparency Quilt course - final class tomorrow- think maybe that should become a priority today!  I've also had a class supply list for another LQS course that also starts next week, Sparkle Plenty Star Quilt by Stephanie Dunphy of Loft Creations and I need to put a bit of thought into my colourways/fabrics for that.

So why am I falling behind with all my quilting commitments - the answer is that I'm too busy pinning to Pinterest and following quilting blogs - so for the rest of today they're banned, it's the only way I'll get anything done though obviously posting to my own blog doesn't count! ;)

Here's a peep at the wonderful fabric selection that my June Queen Bee, Kim, has posted to me - batiks in stunning jewel colours.

Kim's requested two New York Beauty (NYB) blocks with the same or different patterns from a 10 pattern choice.  Here's a look at her guidelines (June Bee Block instructions) and she's also pointed us at an NYB Block Quilt Along which will be very useful.

Lots of points and curves so I'm going to get together with my friend M, who is in the same NYC Mod Bee, and we can give each other encouragement and support and put our thinking caps on.

While I've been busy swooning over fabric and quilt block patterns Tatty has achieved another puppy milestone.  After she realised only yesterday that she can jump on to the sofas all by herself, she has put her new found skills to the test and scaled the dizzy heights of the coffee table - and who can blame her for as we all know a crafty girl just can't live without her sellotape!


Related posts:
New York Beauty (June Bee Block) - Sunglasses Recommended!
Liberated Log Cabin - My August Bee Block


Sunday, 27 May 2012

Tutorial: A No Bind Pram/Stroller Quilt

Super soft flannel fabrics
I wanted to make a pram/stroller quilt for Tatty's pram, something to protect the base from muddy paw prints (and other mucky bits!) and that's quick and easy to throw through the washing machine/dryer.  Obviously, it has to coordinate and have an appropriate 'cute' factor so I've opted for Quilting Treasures Poky Little Puppy Flannel in blue and Poky Little Puppy Balls.

In case you fancy making one yourself, I thought I'd share with you a tutorial of how I've made the quilt.

I ironed the fabrics and then cut the 2 pieces to size (42" width x 1/2 yard), removing the selvedge edges, but you adapt this to whatever size works best for your pram/stroller.

Piecing batting scraps
Cut the batting to size, slightly larger than the fabrics - I always use Quilter's Dream Request Cotton Batting - a low loft batting - and this was just the right project to use up some smaller scraps that I had leftover - if you fancy using up your batting scraps then check out my Piecing Together Batting Scraps Tutorial.

Hold fabric in place with tape
Now I fastened the backing sheet to the floor - face up.  You can secure the fabric with masking tape or sellotape pulling it firmly but not out of shape and stick it in place (I find sellotape holds better than masking tape but you have to go by the fabric finish and your floor surface so you don't cause damage to either).

Next lay the top sheet face down directly on top of the backing sheet and fasten this with sellotape also.  When both sheets are secure then place the batting sheet over them and baste with basting/safety pins through all 3 layers.  I use lots and lots of basting pins in my work - it's back breaking stuff but it's the best way to keep the tension and placement across the fabric layers and this ensures that your finished quilt lies flat.  This batting sheet is larger than the fabrics beneath but this can easily be trimmed once the layers are stitched together.




Backing sheet - face up Top sheet - face down Pieced batting laid over Basting pins through all layers

With all the layers fastened together you can lift them from the floor and remove the sellotape.  If you've basted through the tape you can try to pull it away (don't pull too hard and damage your fabric) but not to worry if there's any left - you can remove it later when all basting pins are out.

Stitching the fabric sandwich with
a straight 1/4" seam
Leave 1/3 of bottom edge open
to allow for turning and
on this edge use a 1/2" seam
Trim away excess batting

Using a walking foot or a 1/4" patchwork/quilting foot, sew around four sides of the quilt sandwich (through all 3 layers) - be sure to avoid basting pins as these will break your needle.  I did change my mind and make the bottom edge seam 1/2" to allow more turn back fabric at the opening.  Start about a third of the way along bottom edge of quilt and end a third of the way along bottom edge of quilt - this will leave a gap of 1/3 of width of quilt to turn quilt around to the right side again.  Backstitch a couple of times at the beginning and end to catch your stitches and secure them.  Once you're done you can trim excess batting.
You'll find this method of sewing on and off the fabric makes turning the open seam later for sewing much easier:
Zigzag the raw quilt edges Finished edges and
showing pieced batting
Change to an open embroidery or zigzag foot and zigzag around all raw edges of quilt 2.4 length and 5.5 width.


Turn fabrics through bottom edge openingTurning the fabrics

Remove all basting pins - turn right sides out (batting can be turned to the front or backing sheet side as, at this stage, it is only attached at the seams) and remove any remaining sellotape.
 
 

Ironed flat Open bottom seam,
ironed and ready to sew

Iron flat taking care to open out all seams properly and that all four corners are completely turned.  Along the bottom edge iron inwards the opening seam.

1/4" top stitch sewn line top stitch finished edges and corners

Switch to a walking foot or 1/4" patchwork/quilting foot and topstitch around all edges with a 1/4" sewn line - this closes the bottom opening and makes all edges appear the same - you can't see the bottom opening edge now.

Baste quilt sandwich together again to hold in position for quilting.  I didn't tape the fabric down this time - the small quilt size and edge stitching held everything nicely in place and I just put the basting pins through the quilt.

I wanted to free motion quilt this piece - it seemed to me that straight line quilting would be too formal for a fun quilt.  My Bernina has a BSR (Bernina Stitch Regulator) which is perfect for free motion quilting regulating the stitch length for me and reacting to the movement of the fabric rather than me having to use the foot pedal.  If you don't have a BSR the same effect can be achieved using a free motion machine foot/ Bernina Darning foot no 9.

If you're using a BSR unplug the foot pedal and attach the BSR foot.  If you're using a free motion machine foot then attach this to your machine.  Lower your feed dogs.  Stitch length 1.5 to 2.5 - I used 2.0 for this piece.  If you have an extra embroidery thread hole in the finger of your bobbin holder then thread through this as well. Bring the bobbin thread up through the fabric to the top and do a couple of small stitches and cut the threads away so they don't become tangled in your work.

Keep your fabric flat on the machine bed so the stitch is formed in the centre of the batting.


This time, I've used Vermicelli/Stippling stitch - a curving and continuous stitch that never crosses over itself and I'm using a white thread so the stitching is visible but doesn't detract from the fabric print.

When you're done, knot and sew in the thread ends through to the centre of the batting and trim off excess thread.

The finished quilt - front and back

All done, we're loving it and Tatty is raring to go!

Added on 23 June 2013:
Maggie @Flowers in the Window has put the tute to great use, by adding a few ties she's made reversible garden chair covers.  Thanks so much for contacting me Maggie, it's such fun to see how others interpret the tute and this looks amazing :D




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Saturday, 26 May 2012

Tutorial: Piecing Together Batting Scraps To Make A New Batting Sheet

When you make a quilt there's always scrap pieces of batting left over.  Here's my tutorial explaining how to join these scraps together to make a new batting sheet - and that way nothing is ever wasted.

Piecing Scrap Batting

Select your batting scraps - enough to make a batting sheet that's large enough for your latest project.  Ensure your batting scraps are all the same loft/quality.

Starting to join the scraps together

Switch your machine's foot to one suitable for a wider stitch and set your machine stitch to double overlock (stitch no 8 on the Bernina 440QE).  I'm using stitch length 2.1 and stitch width 5.5 but you can adjust this to suit your needs.    You can also use a zigzag stitch if you prefer.  If you can set your machine stop to needle down - this will give you more control of the fabric should you stop sewing.


Butt the edges of the scrap pieces up to each other and sew them together using the overlock stitch.  There's no need to pin the batting scraps - just adjust your sewing speed to one that's manageable for you to bring the two pieces together by hand as you sew.  Add additional sections of batting scraps to achieve the required sheet size.




When you're sewing the scraps together it's okay if they overlap in places, it won't make too much thickness when the sheet is finished, in fact, it is better to overlap than to leave a gap.


Butt edges together as you goThat seam is lying flatAdd more scraps as needed

This technique is really great and, depending on the weight of the top and bottom sheet fabrics, the seams won't be visible through the finished quilt.  Of course, if you're making a really special quilt as a memory, a gift or to sell then you wouldn't want to use pieced batting but for an everyday quilt, it works really well and saves you money.


The finished batting sheet

Piecing Scrap Batting



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